Power Dressing

I work part-time at a store that sells resort wear, so my work wardrobe consists entirely of t-shirts and sweatshirts that say “Charleston” across the front or are covered in fanciful beach theme designs. But what I really want is a job where I can wear this dress:

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First things first, I’d need to procure some of those white, wrist-length gloves.  Then, I’d make the longer-sleeved version in deep, smoky gray wool for fall, and the short-sleeve one in garnet red.  And maybe also khaki.  And navy blue.  Can you tell I love this pattern?

I love the darts in the front, and that gathered detail in the back.  I love the length, and the long, unbroken line from shoulder to hem.  And don’t all of the women in the illustration look like they could solve a crisis without even messing up their practical-yet-stylish hair?

I’m going to have to find this pattern, which according to the wiki is from 1956, or find enough similar pieces that I can draft them together.  The front wouldn’t be hard, but that back yoke might be beyond my limited skill.

3 Responses to “Power Dressing”


  1. 1 La BellaDonna April 18, 2008 at 4:21 pm

    Oh, no! I swear to you I just saw that pattern somewhere in the last week! I will try to backtrack to see if I can find it for you!

    What size are you looking for?

  2. 2 La BellaDonna April 18, 2008 at 5:25 pm

    Oh, FJ, I am so sorry! I DID see the darned thing. It was on eBay this week! And it is gone.

    But if it turns up once, perhaps it will turn up again?

    I found it at Miss Helene’s, trying to find that Bolero Princess Dress at DaD.

    And that back yoke is NOT beyond your skill!!!

    When you are working with your fitted shift pattern, first get through all the “fitting” parts. Once that’s done, you’re ready to do the back yoke. If your original shift does not have a two-piece back, cut it so it’s two pieces. Instead of cutting it on the fold, just add a seam allowance down the center back as you’re cutting it out.

    Make a duplicate of the back piece. Mark the DUPLICATE, not your original! Take your handy ruler and pencil. Draw a line across the back pattern piece where you want the seam. Mark “Add seam allowance!” on the pattern piece. Mark two lines next to the center back seam – not too far from the seam. They will be perpendicular to the horizontal seam, parallel to the center back seam (from what I can see; the one farthest away from the CB may be angled), and they will go partway up the back, to about the bottom of the shoulder blade. Use the picture on the envelope as a guide to where you want them. Slash along the two new lines Spread the pattern along each of the slashes approximately 1″ – 2″, and mark them AS IF they were going to be darts. However, they won’t be darts, they’ll be tucks. (By this time, you’ll be adding pieces of paper at the bottom of your new back pattern.) Draw a line across the bottom, not forgetting that the “darts” will extend out a bit, making a shallow scoop shape. Add your seam allowance. Add the seam allowance to the bottom piece! Make a test muslin, at least of the back. FOLD the “Darts” together, fingerpress the folds, and stitch across the bottom.

    If that belty thing is not an add-on, where I’ve written “add a seam allowance”, you will actually SHORTEN the back pieces, and “make a band insertion” instead. “Make bow and tack on middle of band insertion.”

    So what you’ve done is: split the back horizontally, shortened the upper back piece, drawn a band insertion piece, split the upper back piece, and made a bow (check seam allowances need to go from back piece-band insertion-skirt).

    Copy your pattern, as needed; you’ll probably find it easiest to redraw the new pattern at least once, so you don’t have too many scotch-taped bits to work with.

    It’s not hard, I promise you. It’s just time-consuming.

    Suggestion: The band may look more graceful if you cut it as a shallow downward curve, rather than straight across. Yes, it is more work that way, since your band will be cut curved, too. You may also prefer a straight line. You may also have realized that, now that you have mastered the Ruler and Rule the Yoke, you can make variations with a V-shaped back yoke! V it up! V it down!

    N.B.: If you are short through the back, or have a round backside that takes up a Certain Amount of Room, a STRAIGHT line will look best. If you are very long through the back, you may prefer the curved line.

  3. 3 Marianne April 18, 2008 at 11:27 pm

    Wow, thank you so much for the help! Now I have no excuse at all not to try :)


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